A Tikka Tangle: All-Veg Menus at Indian State Banquets Raise Hackles

India’s tradition of hospitality is built on generosity, respect for guests, and a willingness to share one’s own culture. The phrase “Atithi Devo Bhava” – or “the guest is equivalent to God” – has become a mantra for Indian diplomacy under the current BJP government. However, this ideal seems to be taking a beating as India increasingly serves all-vegetarian menus at state banquets.

A recent example was during Vietnam President To Lam’s visit in May, when Rashtrapati Bhavan served stuffed broccoli, sautéed baby potatoes, and rice cooked with green peas – a far cry from the rich culinary diversity India has to offer. The lack of meat on the menu raised eyebrows not just because of its blandness but also because it flew in the face of India’s own gastronomic heritage.

India takes pride in its non-vegetarian cuisine, including tandoori chicken and Galouti kebabs that melt in your mouth. Serving only vegetarian food to foreign guests is seen as a missed opportunity. The coastal regions, for instance, are known for their fish-based delicacies, which were shamefully absent from the menu during Seychelles President Patrick Herminie’s visit in February.

The issue goes beyond mere culinary representation; it has diplomatic implications. Serving vegetarian-only menus at state banquets risks alienating guests who may have come expecting a taste of India’s rich food culture. This is not just a matter of personal preference but also one of cultural exchange and understanding.

Critics argue that this trend is part of the BJP’s broader agenda to homogenize India’s diverse food culture for political gain. The party has been accused of promoting militant vegetarianism in certain parts of the country, which has led to a lack of diversity on plates across the nation. For instance, several states have banned eggs from school lunches, despite evidence showing their nutritional benefits.

The consequences of this approach are far-reaching. Not only does it limit India’s potential for cultural exchange and diplomacy but also perpetuates a narrow view of Indian cuisine that is not reflective of its rich diversity. As Dr Pushpesh Pant, an Indian academic and food historian, puts it: “This is what I call the revenge of the vegetarian.”

The BJP’s all-vegetarian menus at state banquets are a stark reminder of the disconnect between India’s ideals of hospitality and its actions on the ground. The country must rethink its approach to food and culture, recognizing that India’s strength lies in its diversity, not uniformity.

India’s shift towards vegetarianism is not new; however, its promotion as a national ideal has raised eyebrows. The BJP government’s decision to serve all-vegetarian menus at state banquets reflects a broader trend of homogenization in Indian cuisine. This has significant implications for the country’s food culture and identity.

The lack of diversity on India’s plates is a symptom of a larger problem: the erosion of regional culinary traditions. As India becomes increasingly urbanized, its traditional cuisines are being replaced by a uniform, mass-produced vegetarian option. This not only deprives people of their right to choose but also undermines India’s rich gastronomic heritage.

The diplomatic implications of serving all-vegetarian menus at state banquets cannot be overstated. Guests who come expecting a taste of India’s diverse cuisine may leave disappointed, if not insulted. For instance, French President Emmanuel Macron allegedly returned to his suite after a state banquet in 2023 to order “bread, cheese, and cold cuts” because he couldn’t eat anything at dinner.

The BJP’s promotion of vegetarianism is part of a larger agenda to homogenize Indian cuisine. The party has been accused of promoting militant vegetarianism in certain parts of the country, which has led to a lack of diversity on plates across the nation. This includes a ban on eggs being served at school lunches in several states, despite evidence showing their nutritional benefits.

The consequences of this approach are far-reaching. Not only does it limit India’s potential for cultural exchange and diplomacy but also perpetuates a narrow view of Indian cuisine that is not reflective of its rich diversity. As Dr Pushpesh Pant puts it: “This is what I call the revenge of the vegetarian.”

India’s food culture is at a crossroads. The country has a choice to make: continue down the path of homogenization or take steps towards preserving and celebrating its diverse culinary traditions. The BJP government must rethink its approach to food and culture, recognizing that India’s strength lies in its diversity, not uniformity.

As India navigates its complex web of diplomatic relationships, it’s time for a change. It’s time for the country to reclaim its rich gastronomic heritage and offer its guests a taste of its true culinary diversity. Anything less would be a disservice to India’s ideals of hospitality and its rich cultural traditions.